Bosch car batteries Batteries, Belts & Bruised Knuckles: Insights into Basic Car Care
There is definitely something intriguing about an old car engine--wouldn't you agree? There's certainly a lot to be awed by, even in just popping-the-hood (the lever for which is usually inside your car, under the dash, beside the driver's door). If yours won't pop--whether because of damage from an accident, or from just plain old rust--first try giving the hood a good "Fonzarelli" tap here or there; and then try some WD-40 on the cable that controls the hood release. This engine is from my '87 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera; the car (believe it or not) that I STILL actually commute to work with. Affectionately referred to as the "Buick Fireball" (because, originally, the Buick Division of GM produced this engine) this 3.8 L V6 is a beloved relic from my early childhood. Really, it's a slightly modified form of the (probably) more "classic," carbureted GM dinosaurs, that moseyed their way on through the 1970's. Namely: it came with a SERPENTINE BELT, rather than 3 individual belts; a COMPUTER controlled "sequential" full injected engine; and an optional CASSETTE DECK--imagine that!. :) Actually, back in the day, this car even came with it's own theme song; no kidding. "Special Feel," is all I could ever think to call it--give a listen! (Link below this text). To paraphrase a good friend (in a false Slavic accent): "[My car]...it's technology of 70's with connections to 80's." Not like that's saying much: but it IS effortless to drive a car, that has an engine, such as this one, still intact; even with the air conditioner running full blast. It's a real floater sometimes. More importantly, this is a fairly easy engine to work on, maintenance, and to learn from. Such that: whatever has or will yet be said, of the "classic" Cutlass Ciera, lacking in style or sophistication; it more than makes up for that, in an intimate (and I dare to say FUN) automotive educational experience. Cars will invariably come and go in your life, but sincere Ciera love is forever. :) This Hubpage is dedicated to sharing that love, along with short, helpful insights into basic car care. Taking the serpentine belt OFF (for whatever reason) is arguably much easier than written descriptions may actually imply. Essentially, all this involves is being able to locate your engine's "IDLER/TENSIONER PULLEY"--the little wheel, on a spring, that literally draws the belt taut. Note the large, red arrow drawn into the photograph above. This is what the pulley looks like. Front wheel drive GM engines (from the 80's-90's at least) were always turned sideways (meaning the belts ran parallel to the passenger's side front fender). Sometimes they're easy to see, and sometimes not so. On the more recent generation of Chevy Cavalier, for example: the tensioner pulley is a lot harder to reach, just owing to the overall compactness of the engine compartment. Believe me though: if I can finagle it, so can you (I just used a long crow bar to move the pulley). On the 80's 3.8 L GM engine it's a breeze. A common misconception is that in order to remove the serpentine belt, you would have to remove the pulley altogether; when if fact, you are merely required to PUSH the pulley out of the way, to loosen the belt. Do this by attaching the appropriately sized socket (which is probably metric) to a socket wrench--or use a box wrench--and slip that onto the bolt at the center of the tensioner pulley. A longer length wrench will give you some greater leverage. Pushing forward or backward on the handle of your wrench will then stretch the spring that the pulley is attached to; this slackens the belt. Presto! You have now taken the belt off! Yay! :D Now you can tackle either the water pump, power steering pump, a/c compressor, or alternator as needed. Remember: beyond this point, if you do anything electrical, you will need to disconnect the battery first! Whether you're working inside of your car, or under the hood; on anything electrical, it is always correct to disconnect the car's battery first. Though often people are just as intimidated to try to disconnect one of these, as they would be, say: sitting in an electric chair; the truth is that the only thing you really need to AVOID doing, is TOUCHING BOTH TERMINALS simultaneously. DO NOT DO THIS EVER, EVER, EVER! Just to give you an idea: short circuiting the battery this way (by essentially putting yourself "in parallel") has enough electrical energy to actually briefly weld--and that's obviously not something you want to do with your bare hands or feet, or any part of you! This is also why car batteries are sold, off the shelf, with plastic insulator caps over the terminals. You could be "zapped" just as well in the store, without these to protect you. Also: wearing Rubbermaid gloves (he said from experience) is helpful in protect you from very minor Bosch car batteries click here electrical current--but it wouldn't do much in a situation like this. I've never connected with a car battery myself; still I have been shocked by other car circuits--AND IT HURTS, EVEN THROUGH RUBBER! Essentially, this is the whole point: you are disconnecting ONE BATTERY TERMINAL, with the intent to save you from getting zapped--and potentially seriously injured--while working elsewhere. To do this is fairly simply... GM cars, from my era, typically would situate the battery on the driver's side, closest to the front. An unfortunate consequence of this, is that the battery itself could not be removed without first moving the oblique structural brace. Fortunately, the terminal in question, is the BLACK (rather than red), "NEGATIVE" TERMINAL; and that's mostly out of the way of this cross-support piece. You'll need to use a small socket wrench, or box wrench, on the end of the negative battery terminal bolt. My car happens to use 5/16". Remember the old saying: "Right-e Tight-e; Left-e Loose-e." And that's about it. If you have an under-the-hood light, it'll flicker and die as you disconnect the terminal; so you'll know you're safe from shock thereafter as well! :D Lastly: European circuits are typically grounded through the positive. If your car was manufactured OUTSIDE of the USA, you might remove the positive terminal in lieu of the negative. In theory: it really shouldn't matter, as long as ONE of the terminals is disconnected to break all circuits. When in doubt, disconnect both. The most important function of your car's battery is to provide enough electrical energy to create the spark that ignites fuel. Beyond serving as this impetus, the battery is also wired to enable each of the car's many accessories (such as the blower fan, radio, electric rear defogger, and lights). But without another important device--the car's ALTERNATOR--each of these amenities would inevitably run the battery down, and crush your dreams for a safe, lively, and/or hospitable joy ride. Essentially, the job of the alternator is to provide the battery with a continuously charged state of being. How well this is working or not, you can determine with help of a simple voltmeter. When your car engine is off, the battery's voltage should be about 12V (DC) or less; and when it's actually running (optimally), it increased up to actually almost 14 V. To test for a bad alternator: (1) Start your car. (2) Turn your voltmeter on and set it to "DC," and an appropriate scale (whole volts--not millivolts--and not in the hundreds place either; try to get one or two decimal places). (3) Connect the test "probe" leads to the terminal holes on the voltmeter; and then touch the black probe to the BLACK ( - ) NEGATIVE terminal of the car's battery; and then the red probe to the RED ( + ) POSITIVE terminal. Not to worry--you won't get hurt. It isn't your fingers making contact with the battery terminals after all; it's just the probes. That having been said: KEEP YOUR HANDS ON THE PLASTIC! (4) If--after you've connected your voltmeter's test probes to each of the terminals of your car's battery--your reading jumps drastically between a broad range of voltages (rather than be mostly consistent); or if the voltage reading is less than 12V (with the car running) for a battery that you know is good; chances are you probably need a new alternator--because it's simply NOT doing it's job keeping the battery charged! Usually cars have an "idiot light" of some sort, on the dash, which indicates a weak battery. If this charge indicator goes on and off frequently--AND IF IT ISN'T THE STUPID BULB ITSELF--it's another good bet you need the alternator replaced. The actual difficulty starting your car to begin with, is often a red herring. If it isn't just a plain old dead or weak battery, then it might be either the STARTER, SOLENOID or IGNITION COIL PACK (or on older cars: the DISTRIBUTOR). Last but not least: I've actually once had a problem starting my car--no lie--simply because of the engine light bulb being disconnected! I swear--plug it in, and the car started right up; take it out again, and it refused to start! My only guess is that this lamp was somehow also connected (in series) to the vehicle's "kill switch." Don't know why that would be. But I digress... After having diagnosed this problem, you can now proceed with removal and installation. This isn't really a hard fix either. The difficulty of it, I have found, is entirely dependent on the actual position of the alternator itself. From the pictures above, you can see for yourself that my personal alternator is in plain sight (obviously, a nice place for it to be). However, on more compact car's--such as (once again) the (dreaded) 2003 Chevy Cavalier--the location of the alternator can be a bit of a tricky place. To be specific: engineers sometimes seem to enjoy burying them under the car's WATER PUMP, and either the RADIATOR INLET or OUTLET HOSE. This means you might have to disconnect one of the hoses (hopefully just the top one) and release a fraction of the coolant from within (which you shouldn't simply allow to spill on the ground--it's toxic!). Taking a radiator hose off isn't really much of a technical problem either, accept for being a diversion from what you'd really like to be doing. But alas: such it is, sometimes, with these cars. Engineers could afford to be more considerate. But once the alternator can be reached... (0) Remember that the battery MUST be DISCONNECTED first. (1a) Disconnect the plug that leads from the back of the alternator itself (on GM cars, this is often a clip-style plug). You might want to apply a flat head screwdriver, to wedge and release the clip, before then attempting to pull it out). (2a) Taking a wrench or ratchet, next unscrew the nut retaining the single, heavy gauge, usually RED WIRE (also on the back of the alternator); then remove this wire. This wire goes to the battery (probably why it's red to begin with). And so, now at this point, electrically speaking, "It's [officially] dead Jim!" (3a) Moving once again to the front of the alternator (or at least where it's attached to the belt), proceed to remove the belt. If a serpentine type: take a wrench and literally push the idler pulley out of the way (also described above); this will make the belt slacken enough to remove it. BEWARE: sometimes the idler pulley is in a rather crummy place, as well. (4a) Lastly: unscrew each of the (normally two) retaining bolts (those that actually hold the alternator in place). Remember: if you just can't seem to get enough TORQUE (very loosely put: a "force of rotation") to loosen these bolts; or if you simply don't feel like you're strong enough for the job; don't sweat it. You can always improvise a longer wrench for added leverage like my older brother, Jim, once taught me. I think my older brother was really Archimedes in a past life. :) But...if you have any bit of metal pipe laying about--maybe part of a bicycle, fence, or drain--you can try to slip this over the end of your ratchet or wrench, making it "a few knuckles longer," so to speak. In terms of Physics: by increasing the lever arm (the ratchet length) and altering the angle between your arm and lever (hopefully to 90o) you can increase torque. Overall, the amount of WORK done remains unchanged; but you exert yourself less, because you only need to apply a fraction of the "lateral force," you otherwise would on the wrench. Essentially: you make up for that by moving through a wider rotation of the lever (where your hand is actually applying the force). Think of it this way: if you had a short lever, and were basically closer to the pivot point (the bolt head), even in successfully turning the bolt, you'd probably only moved through a short rotation, and exert yourself quite a bit in the process. Whereas: if you have a longer lever, and hence are a long distance from the pivot point, you rotate through a wider turn of the lever, but exert yourself a lot less--it's the same number of mathematical degrees, potentially; but because you are farther away, the arc path you make is proportionately longer. Archimedes--what a greater guy he was! :) Jim's a good guy too. Anyway, it's a neat little trick to keep up your sleeve. To replace the alternator, obvious, follow these steps in reverse order. But especially remember: electrically connect the alternator before EVER reconnecting the battery. And, when reconnecting the battery: ALWAYS connect the GROUND (in the USA, the BLACK ( - ) NEGATIVE TERMINAL) BEFORE re-attaching the RED. An oil change is a pretty basic and necessary maintenance for your regularly driven vehicle. I've done my own oil changes religiously for about 16 years now; and I'm very proud to say that my very first car (a.k.a. "Frankenstein") had made it all the way to 232,000 miles before it finally went "ka-put-ski." :) In the photographs above--and at the time they were taken--you'll notice that the filter attached to my car is/was orange. This is simply the color of choice for that particular brand; and aside from making it easier to point out, color really has no specification or bearing on your project. And for the record: I'm looking for another brand. Below, I've attached a link from "youtuber" Ckermit8, who was kind enough to cut open several brands for our comparison (and GOD bless him too). The way a canister filter works: oil from the engine enters throw the ring of smaller holes (at the top of the filter). To exit: the oil is first filtered through (usually) a corrugated cylinder of paper; and then through a hallow, inner, aluminum strainer (of sorts), which provides a path back to the engine through the larger central hole, in the top of the canister. Note the diagram provided. With the way the economy is at present, however: I expect to see a resurgence in the prevalence of "cartridge" style oil filter. That, and also: the greater "chintzy-fication" (if I may) of the existing canister product portfolio. You can tell a poorly crafted one (from the outside at least) in a similar fashion to which you judge a bad pepper--that is: if you can easily crush it in your hand, it's no good! The inside is another story; defective filters have large gaping holes in the filter paper. Yikes! Best to avoid any with a bad reputation; and they are out there. You'd be surprised at the price you'd pay for one of the least reliable brands. And oil filtration IS important. If gasoline (unfortunately) is the "food" of the vehicle; then oil is the "life blood"--removing the bad stuff (metal shavings) from the engine, and enabling the various parts to move uninhibited. Anyway... (0) Not to insult anybody, but make sure your engine is OFF before you ever start working on it. (1) Start by locating the OIL FILLER CAP (which is usually the top, front and center of the engine, on a valve cover); and then the OIL PAN & PLUG (which is usually the lowest part of the center of the engine). Getting under the car is sometimes difficulty; so use ramps, or some such, if you prefer or need the extra space. The oil filler cap is usually a large, sprocket-esque chunk of plastic; and is important also for the weight of oil indicated on it. The "crankcase oil capacity"--maximum you should have in the engine at any given moment--is provided in your owner's manual (check the glove box). If you no longer have the manual, you can always find it online, given the type of engine you have. Don't be fooled by the size of the car itself though: my older sister's little Chevy Cavalier (with a 4 cylinder engine) actually takes more oil than my V6 Oldsmobile (so go figure). 6 cylinder engines tend to use 10W-30; and smaller engines 5W-30. This also depends on the climate conditions you live in. If you live in mostly cold territory during the year, you can use a less viscous oil like 5W-30 ("less viscous" meaning "thinner" or "less syrupy"). But now that you know where these two ends are... (2) Simply unscrew the oil filler cap and set it aside (do not put anything in the engine yet. (3) Get a drain pan (I use a triangular type for easier pouring off later) and an appropriate socket or box wrench (I prefer the box wrench for this particular job myself); and then get under the car where the oil pan & plug are. The drain plug is a small metal bolt that literally does just what it sounds like--it plugs the hole in the oil pan! (4) With your wrench, and some leverage, proceed to unscrew the oil plug just enough to allow you to loosen it thereafter by hand. Do not be afraid of the oil, but do realize that if you've been running the engine beforehand (maybe you put a detergent additive into the oil like Motor Flush, which I used also), then it's going to be hot; and you have to hold onto this little nibble-bit. Many times I have dropped it into the drain pan I was using; and that's no fun to have fish out either. So WEAR RUBBERMAID GLOVES: most importantly, to avoid the carcinogenic toxicity of used motor oil (which is absorbed through skin); and also, to give you some added dexterity. (5) Having the oil filler cap off above helps everything drain out; let it all drain, of course, into your drain pan for as long as it takes (about 10 minutes) and DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START YOUR CAR AT ALL! You don't want to risk seizing the engine; which would happen without the oil in it. If you do this, the engine block will literally have to be replaced--and that's "buku bucks" too! : - ( In getting your filter off, there is the potential to spill oil too; it almost can't be avoided really, because of some of these engine designs. Take some preventative measure: put down a good amount of paper towels to catch anything--spilling it on the ground is no good for the environment either! Let the BP disaster be a lesson to all of us. (6) After the oil is sufficiently drained, replace the plug tightly (you might also purchase and use a small gasket for just such an occasion). Not for anything, but I love tapping on the pan when it's empty; it makes a nice, almost muffled, echoing sound from within. (7) Next, slowly move the drain pan over to where you've located the oil filter (this will help prevent a ground spill as well). Proceed to unscrew the used oil filter by hand (if it was put on by hand the last time it was replaced, then you can do it by hand now; otherwise, purchase and employ the special socket that fits over the bottom of your size oil filter). I especially DO NOT recommend attempting to puncture the canister with an ice pick or some other sharp object. If the sheet metal used in constructing the canister is thin, it just might sheer it, rather than un-tighten it while attempting to turn. Then you'll have a terribly sharp object pouring oil onto a bloodied hand (I speak also from experience). Yet another reason not to buy a cheaply made oil filter (yes, I'm looking at YOU store brand favorite of R&S Strauss!). (8) Once OFF, proceed to invert the can and pour the residual oil into your pan. This may take a few moments as well. I usually then stuff some paper towels into the bigger hole in the canister to absorb anything else. (9) Finally, taking an unused CONTAINER OF OIL in hand, pour some into the center of a NEW FILTER to fill it, and spread a little around the rubber gasket (this helps make a good seal when attaching it to the engine--it'll be easier to take off next time). Screw the new filter to where the old filter was attached. (10) Stand up, and then slowly pull out the drain pan from under your car, and set it aside for storage/recycling later. At this point, you can start pouring NEW oil into the crankcase, via the oil filler hole at the top of the engine... (11) NOW, remembering the "crankcase capacity" you've researched: add that exact amount via the oil filler cap (you've already filled the oil filter itself, so don't even worry about that--it's not part of the crankcase). Replace the cap, and you have successfully accomplished another very important task-- congratulations pallie! :) Lastly: a word about CARTRIDGE FILTERS... Cartridges, rather than canisters, are probably going to become the norm in the near future; at least for GM vehicles. Because they are simple paper and plastic construction: cartridge filters are un-doubtably less expensive for their manufacturer; however, they are also claimed to be much better for the environment (which I can hope is actually true). Removing one isn't very difficult either. I would even go so far as to say, that they're easier than removing the more traditional filter--as long as you have the right tools on hand. The kind of cartridge I've seen (again: my sister's Chevy Cavalier--a 2003 to be precise) requires a wider socket attachment (about 1 1/4") and probably an good size extension bar, to get over things that are in the way of applying your wrench. One thing that's annoying, I have found, is that you have to remove the air intake duct to get at the oil filter on the Chevy Cavalier. AND ANOTHER THING: though it is often the case that such filters come packaged with a little rubber band gasket, I have in my experience only found them to actually CAUSE LEAKS rather than prevent them. So I no longer bother using the rubber bands at all. Just tighten the screw on cap flush to the surface of the engine; that has always proven sufficient for me. Used motor oil is a toxic substance, and should be handled with the utmost care. Realistically, the only thing that should be done with oil, after bleeding it from your crank case, is to carefully transport it to the nearest RECYCLING CENTER. Depending upon where you live, this may be difficult, of course. In New Jersey at least, I am pleased to report, the municipality where I live offers a mostly convenient recycling facility for various household wastes and chemicals. Short of that, auto supply places that also do maintenance--like R & S Strauss--are usually pretty good about utilizing their used oil storage and recycling container. Provided you won't leave the waste containing bottle behind that you came in with: I've seen the staff regularly flag people through to the back of the store for just such a purpose; and do so happily. Actually, come to think of it: they'll also take a bad battery off your hands. And if you purchased a new battery through their store, they'll even rebate a few bucks right at the register; no having to mail away and wait for anything either. A word on actually pouring oil though... I have admittedly spilled my share of oil onto the pavement--even despite my various precautions. For starters, what I have learned, is NEVER to do an oil change under windy conditions. If you have a garage (and I no longer do, unfortunately), work there instead with the door open; just for ventilation. I also advise you not to be fooled by the physical size of either your car, or it's engine. In working on my sister's car, I'd made the awesome mistake once of going for the smaller size drain pan; and when in fact, this particular vehicle's oil capacity (an inline 4-cylinder), was greater than even my 3.8 L V6 from the 80's! Consequently, the oil, having completely drained, went right to the brim of Bosch car batteries my crummy little pan--yuck! :( In looking for the appropriately sized pan for your purposes, do learn from my many mistakes. In particular: compare the capacities of both the pan and your engine, ahead of the project; AND, never buy a drain pan that is composed of thin, flimsy plastic--this makes pouring off oil even more unduly challenging! Triangularly shaped oil pans are probably the easiest to use; search for a rigid pan--one that will not yield to the weight of the oil therein, and bow as you're pouring! Also, purchase a large size oil container with a screwed-on cap. More likely, this is what you'd prefer to drive over to a recycling location,no? That is, unless of course: you'd like to practice your zen-like concentration skills and balancing act. :) If you do get oil on the ground, try some kitty litter to absorb it; and then proceed to scoop it up with paper towels. Unfortunately, there isn't much else you can do (no one recycles used kitty letter...at least not yet). It is better to aim to prevent such spills from occurring to begin with. So don't go drinking first either, and then spend an impromptu afternoon re-enacting the Exxon Valdez in your front yard! :( Bear in mind: anything hazardous that gets onto the pavement potentially poses a risk to the well-being of your pets also (antifreeze being the worst). Protecting the environment is everybody's responsibility; so let it start at home. As Eddie Murphy's Gumby might have said: PROPERLY RECYCLE YOUR HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS...DAMMIT! While it is important, of course: (1) to always study a good repair manual before engaging in any sort of car related project; and (2) to properly gather and utilize the appropriate tools and techniques at your disposal; in truth, sometimes you'll find you really just have to sort of expect the unexpected, where your car is concerned. After all: your car's been outside a lot--in the "real world"--experiencing inclement weather, accidents, and the occasion malicious mischief of local hooligans. Such, invariably: by the time you've completed even one minor maintenance of your vehicle, you'll come to that realization: that there really was no amount of research you could have done prior, that would ever entirely prepare you, for your car's idiosyncrasies. Case in point: the bolts in and around your rear axle, which on my model at least, have a tendency to "COLD WELD." Cold welding is a natural materials phenomenon, that can occur (over time) between the interface of 2 similar metals, that each have clean, smooth surfaces, and are in contact under sufficient pressure. Your shock absorbers, of course, exert pressure; and over many years (especially if you haven't removed rear axle bolts too often--and who would want too?!) that pressure actually begins to adhere the tight, smooth, cylindrical metal envelope through which the base bolt of a shock absorber resides. This makes removal and installation of said bolts--an otherwise undaunting task--a major fiasco. There is no amount of WD-40 that will unbond these materials. Essentially, bolts that have truly cold welded need to be cut out and replaced sometimes--and you may not actually have a blow torch or reciprocating saw on hand, to do just that. So be-ware! And if you can get your bolts out with relative easy: do the right thing and lubricate them before reinstalling them; so it's just as easy next time you want to perform the same maintenance. Probably the best investment you'll ever make, in car-related tool technology, is a PORTABLE BATTERY JUMP-START unit. I bought my own at a Sears Hardware store several years ago, for about $100 (USA); and even after many, many uses, it STILL always serves me well. Typically, this device comes as a combination power-pack/air-compressor; which is also very helpful, while in a bit of bind, stuck on the road (albeit it rather noisy). The model I have (shown in the pictures above), believe it or not, also has a very strong built-in flashlight; as well as dual AC-receptacles. So you see: it is very well worth the money; for even if you never use your unit for an actual jump-start, just imagine still the potential for impromptu camping trips! Also, it's safe to say you're ready, at least for a two-hour or so interim in the apocalypse (after that, who knows what you'll do...probably eat all of my duct tape). :) If you ARE shot for cash, however, you can still always purchase a nice, ordinary set of JUMPER CABLES--truly, something everyone ought to have in their trunk anyway! Whereas power-packs are nearly instantaneous (and wonderful); they do still require a charge themselves, after use. Jumper cables, of course, never require a charge; their purpose is instead merely to provide a pathway (or "jump") between two car batteries. This section of the hub will describe how to use both: (a) a plain set of jumper cables; and (b) a jump-start power-pack unit. Firstly: the easy way... Using a Jump-start Power-pack: (0) The power-pack, again, needs to be charged before use (although, not necessarily "fully;" generally, the greater the percent of the charge you start with, the faster your troubles will be over). (0) Lift your hood, and locate your battery; clean the terminals with a wire brush if necessary (or if you actually have one available). (2) Taking the large RED alligator-style connector in hand: "bite-it" onto the RED ( + ) POSITIVE terminal of your dead battery. (3) Next, taking the large BLACK alligator-style connector in hand: "bite-that" onto the BLACK ( - ) NEGATIVE terminal of your dead battery. (4) Turn your ignition key, and attempt to start the vehicle a few times. Allow it to crank for no more than 5 seconds each attempt. Pump the gas pedal while cranking (if you have an older car that isn't fuel-injected, be careful not to flood the engine this way). *If you know your power-pack device is reliable (and the car's battery is normally useful, save for this experiment) but still your engine will not turn-over; it might just be a poor connection between the alligator clips and the battery terminals. Check to see if the terminals are corroded or rusty; if they are, clean them with a wire brush and/or a solution of baking soda and vinegar. *Baking soda, by itself, neutralizes battery acid; white vinegar (which is dilute acetic acid), by itself, will dissolve some of the corrosion on the terminal (which is really a salt compound). Mixing baking soda (a base) with white vinegar (an acid)--or with the exposed acid from the car's battery--will produce a chemical reaction, in which WATER, SALT (in solution), and CARBON DIOXIDE are formed (the bubbles therein). Generally, this fizzing is thought to help loosen some of the debris. But since, in essence, you would be producing more crystallized salt (and, ultimately, more corrosion on the terminals this way), were you to merely leave everything to dry; it is probably best to wipe down the terminals after brushing them with this concoction. A quick, little "shpritz" of water helps too, of course. *Once you've dried everything, apply an even amount of dielectic grease to the outside of the battery terminals (this keeps moisture and particles off the terminal, inhibiting corrosion). Vaseline works too, but it might melt off faster. Using a Jumper Cables: The procedure for setting up a "jump" is a little more involved and important to follow for safety reasons. (0) Bring the two cars doing the jump close enough together--without touching--to connect them via the jumper cables. TURN THE "LIVE" CAR OFF (also, take the key out of the "dead" one). *You could leave the good car running if you want to do a nice, perfectly safe but slower charge (takes about 10-15 minutes), which would probably be easier on the donor vehicle also, not having to start with both cars attached. Either way, proceed with caution--POSITIVE ( + ) to POSITIVE ( + ) always, and never positive ( + ) to negative ( - ) or vice versa . (1) STARTING AT THE DEAD BATTERY: connect the RED POSITIVE ( + ) CABLE CLIP to the RED POSITIVE ( + ) TERMINAL; and then connect the other end of the RED POSITIVE ( + ) CABLE CLIP to the RED POSITIVE ( + ) TERMINAL on the good battery. To summarize: start on the + dead, end on the + live. (2) NEXT, FROM THE LIVE BATTERY: connect the BLACK NEGATIVE ( - ) CABLE CLIP to the BLACK NEGATIVE ( - ) TERMINAL; and then connect the other end of the BLACK NEGATIVE ( - ) CABLE CLIP to the metal, engine hoisting bracket (yes, rather than the battery terminal). To summarize, once again: start on the - good, end on the metal hoist bracket dead. Check out the photos above to see what the bracket actually looks like. (3) SITTING IN THE DONOR VEHICLE: start the engine; rev it a few times, at length (maybe for a few minutes); and then attempt to start the "dead" vehicle. If this procedure works: disconnect the cables in reverse order (meaning: black from the bracket first, and working your way backwards until both cars are without the cables). BE CAREFUL in disconnecting the clips that are still close together, on the original donor battery--you don't want to touch them together while they are still attached to the battery! * I should like to add just one more thing: while this procedure has been outlined in several owners manuals I've read over the years, it is still NOT MY FAVORITE. Really the safest procedure I can think of, involves utilizing a power-pack (like I've already mentioned); because, then there is no risk of damaging the donor vehicle's alternator, or other electrical components; simply for the fact there would be no other vehicle involved. * And while it may be a slower process, overall: (1) running the engine of a donor vehicle BEFORE making the connections to a dead vehicle; (2) waiting maybe 10-15 minutes longer than you would otherwise, for the dead battery to build up a charge; and (3) THEN DISCONNECTING THE CABLES, BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO TURN-OVER THE DEAD CAR; I still believe THAT WOULD BE SAFER for both vehicles. *I've jumped vehicles myself, many times, using both methods--and they honestly both work fine. Facts on Antifreeze: For Use and Recycling...
It is ESSENTIAL, that you make the best effort to: firstly, protect yourself from radiator chemicals; and secondly (and just as importantly) protect the environment from them as well. A logical question invariably follows: "Well, how do I do that?" Simple, get yourself:
PROCEDURE: For me at least, locating the DRAIN COCK was really the hardest part; and that is the only reason you might like to jack-up your car (to look for it). Usually, you will find the drain at the bottom, to one side of the radiator (mine was on the driver's side). Unscrewing the plastic knob releases the antifreeze like a faucet; so you have to be careful. Once you've found the knob, PUT ON YOUR GOGGLES & GLOVES before going any further.
Above all else, be mindful of the angle at which the vehicle resides. If your car is jacked in the front only, then it is pitched backward. Remember to put on the emergency brake (just to be on the safe side). It is also best to attempt drainage on a level surface (or at least with a car pitched SLIGHTLY towards the drain cock). If the car is pitched backward, then it is more likely to trap some fluids in the hoses, rather than drain completely (this is also a pain in the neck later, when you're trying to fill the radiator, and having to fight trapped pockets of air). Basically, you're going to fill your radiator, and then run the engine TWICE--the first time: with detergent and water; and a second time: water only. Years ago, people would flush their radiator periodically with copious amounts of water. Really, this involved just a little bit of time; but also, a lot of polluted water, getting into the environment. Nowadays, it is NOT RESPONSIBLE, simply to allow water to run from a garden hose, through the bottom of your radiator, continually; but rather, to close the system, and then idle the vehicle with a detergent in it (for a limited amount of time, and a finite amount of water). Reasonably speaking: you SHOULD in fact maintenance your car's radiator in this way, at least once every summer; but you should do so also, with some forethought, and consideration for the effect on the planet! That having been said, "flushing" is almost as easy as cleaning a toilet; and just as in cleaning your bathroom, your going to need a cleaning agent. And Presto! Or rather Prestone, makes a detergent for just such an occasion, known as Super Flush; and that is honestly what I use (although, I am certain there are other brands out there, just as good). TO CLEAN YOUR COOLING SYSTEM (i.e. "flush it"):
While you're waiting, you may as well take this opportunity to empty your drain pan of the used antifreeze you've already drained. Do so ONLY by pouring into storage bottles (you'll probably need about 3 jugs for this initial amount). And, picking up where we left off... 6. Turn off your car, and allow it to cool down (you don't want to pour scolding hot radiator fluids on yourself while draining, of course!). Wait about another 10-15 minutes. 7. With your now empty drain pan on hand, once again, release the drain cock, and allow the water/detergent/antifreeze leftover mixture to pour. When the drip ceases again, close the cock. Once more, pour the contents of your drain pan into storage bottles (this will probably take another 2 jugs). According to Prestone: you ought to flush the radiator once again; only this time, with just water. Same procedure: (1) close the cock; (2) fill the radiator up to the cap; (3) close the cap, and run the engine with the heater on, for 10 minutes. This makes sense, because, obviously, you wouldn't want residue of soap running through your engine, where there is supposed to be coolant. You'll notice also, even after you do this the second time, that the water draining out is still somewhat green (perhaps with particles). You could always go for a second dose of detergent; but I haven't myself. Anyway, it just generates that much more waste water to have to recycle. If you waste antifreeze is rather muddy looking to begin with...then you might have a head gasket leak that needs addressing. The head gasket is an insulating pad of material that normally sits between the head (the top of the engine) and the block (where the pistons reside). If the gasket is "blown," that means that it's allowing fluids that wouldn't ordinarily come into contact, to mix (specifically: combustion gases and antifreeze; or even oil and antifreeze). This is a very expensive repair--even though the gasket itself isn't very--because the engine has to be taken apart to replace the gasket. Usually, you can tell that this is occurring, even without having monitored your coolant at all. If your exhaust regularly has a sweet smell (remember: antifreeze is sweet; which is why dogs and cats try to drink it), that usually indicates at least a tiny seepage between the water jackets in the engine block, and the combustion chamber. You'd also know if were really bad, if your car starts to lose a lot of pick-up, while driving. But not to worry. Firstly, I've had this problem of sweet smelling exhaust myself--and for a long time without doing anything serious (literally 2 years). The fissures, either in the gasket, or in the block itself, are probably small, if you aren't noticeably losing pull; AND, more importantly, you can treat that yourself with a store bought additive (no major surgery). The only reason I mention this now, is because, usually SEALANT ADDITIVES are poured into a radiator. And since you happen to be doing a coolant change yourself anyway; now might be as good a time as any, to nip that pesky gasket or cracked block, in the proverbial bud. Choosing an sealant is another ordeal, however. After all: which one to choose? I would say: try to get one that doesn't have large particles in it, because--YOU JUST CLEANED OUT YOUR RADIATOR! Recently, I tried Steel Seal, on the recommendation of famed mechanic, Scotty Kilmer (see video above); and so far so good. They are expensive though (the 6-cylinder dose, for example, was $70 with shipping). But it might be worth it. It certainly was to me--I love my car! And $70 versus $500 or more, is certainly a worthy preventative maintenance. But I digress...By the time you're done flushing the system a second time (again, with just water), you'll have accumulated quite a bit of waste coolant and contaminated water. But I cannot stress this enough: you must save it from going down the sewer, or into the ground! Lately, I've done a lot of research, about just this concern (notice above, the section on Antifreeze Facts); and honestly, I'm still not satisfied with the solutions I've been getting. I have researched everywhere from the US Environmental Protection Agency, to the NJ Dept. of Environmental Protection, and finally to Prestone itself--AND NOBODY, it seems, HAS ANY REAL ANSWERS as to what I do with these substances; once I've gotten them out of my car! Apparently, there is no serious Federal standard (although there jolly-well ought to be). And, depending upon where you actually live: literally flushing antifreeze straight down your in home toilet, may or may not be feasible (it depends on whether your specific sewage treatment plant can handle those chemicals or not). So there really is no clear solution for all of us performing this routine. Alas. But, in my area at least, they do have a periodic "hazardous household waste" recycling day, at my local public works; as I imagine they might in your town as well. I shall therefore have to wait to recycle my 6 or 7 gallons of waste antifreeze until October; and I hope you will have as much patience too. It's important after all. Now, lastly: pouring fluids into an otherwise empty radiator, doesn't sound too complicated; but you will have to measure if you want a precise ratio of coolant to water mixture. Generally, there is two options: 50/50 or 70/30. You could just buy 2-3 containers of pre-diluted Prestone 50/50; fill your radiator to the top with that; then top-off the reserve tank, and be done with it. But, a 70% proportion of pure antifreeze in your mixture, does have it's advantages (namely, a broader range of operating temperature). And if you want to go the 70/30 route, then here's what you'll do...
mine, for example: 12.75 QTS.
e.g. 12.75 QTS x 0.7 = 8.925 QTS ‰ˆ 9 QTS.
so, 9 QTS ÷ 4 QRTS = 2 full containers of straight antifreeze + 1 extra quart.
and the calculation: 12.75 QTS - 9 QTS = 3.75 QRTS ‰ˆ 4 QTS = 1 GAL of Water; or similarly: 12.75 QTS x 0.3 (as in 30% water) = 3.825 ‰ˆ 4 QTS = 1 GAL Water.
So in summary: purchase 2 or 3 containers of pure antifreeze (2-3 gals) and 1 jug of distilled water (1 gallon). Mostly likely, you will then pour the contents of just 2 gallons of antifreeze directly into the radiator, followed by the gallon water. If you find that you cannot fit all of the fluid at the time of pouring, don't panic. Do as much as you can without spilling; and then fill the reserve tank. It's possible: that either a pocket of air is trapped in the system; or, the reserve tank capacity was also figured into the "Total Cooling System Capacity" statistic that you've researched. And just where to find your car's vital statistics? Try the owner's manual, given with the vehicle at the time of purchase--check your glovebox! Finally, make sure both your radiator cap, and reserve tank cap, are on tightly before attempting to go driving anywhere! :) Congratulations--you've just flushed and filled your cooling system! Now hit-up the local recycling center. |
